Monday, October 3, 2011

How To: Bleach Touch up

A bleach touch up is for anyone who has bleached blonde hair and has an outgrowth of 1/2''. It is not recommended to do a bleach touch up yourself if you have more than that amount of hair growth because you will risk giving yourself a golden band of hair where the heat of the scalp does not reach. This is a process that you can have a friend do for you to be sure you get full coverage.

What you will need:
Professional dual purpose bleach
Cream developer
Tint Brush
Tint bowl
4 hair clips
Comb
Measuring cup
Hair coloring cape
Gloves
Shampoo
Conditioner

My recommendations for products:
Paul Mitchell Dual Purpose Lightener (you can find this on amazon.com for around $50, and this will last you at least 20 touch ups, possibly more)
Paul Mitchell Cream Developer( 20 volume, unless you have very dark natural hair. If your hair is very dark brown hair, it is not recommended that you do a full bleach touch up for fear of turning your hair orange)
Everything else can be purchased at your local beauty supply. You can also ask an employee at the beauty supply store for a bleach powder recommendation. They are usually very helpful.

Have your friend:
1. Put on color cape
2. comb through hair to make sure there are no tangles
3. divide hair into 4 sections, 2 front and two back(t-part)
4. Put on gloves. Mix up bleach according to manufacturers instructions. How much you use all depends on the amount of hair the person has. Start with less and mix up more if you need to.
5. Starting in the back right section of hair, outline the section with the bleach. (on outgrowth only)
6. Taking 1/4'' sub-sections work your way from the top of the right back section until you get to the bottom. You will be applying the bleach to the new growth hair only, trying not to overlap the bleach over the previously bleached hair.
7. continue with this process in the order of back left, front right, front left.
8. Work quickly in order to have the bleach on all sections for around the same amount of time. If you are uneasy about your speed, you can apply only to the back sections, let it process, rinse, and apply to front sections.
9. Keep any extra bleach in bowl, in case you notice a spot you have missed. Go through each section to make sure you have covered all areas.
10. You will need to watch the hair changing color. If your hair is much darker than the blond color you lighten to, you will need to leave the bleach on longer. Most people bleaching all of their hair, like the platinum blonde, so keep an eye on the hair and when it is the color of the inside of a banana peel, it is ready to be rinsed. If you are going for as blonde as you can, you will determine the color based on the health of your hair. A stretch test will need to be performed. 
Stretch Test: 
Lightly pull the hair that has bleach on it to see if it stretches. If the hair is stretching a lot you know that it has been broken down too much and needs to be rinsed immediately. The hair should not stretch very much because you want to maintain the health of your hair.
11. When the hair is the right color for you, you will need to rinse it out. Rinse very well(in sink or bathtub) and shampoo and condition hair.

Notes:

  • Most processing times run around 30 to 45 minutes. Just be sure the hair is intact.
  • If your hair has unsightly undertones, you can use a semi permanent hair color to tone it. Use the above color wheel to decide what color you need. For the most part you can use a violet toner to cancel unwanted tones. My favorite is Shades EQ by Redken, shade 9V. You need to purchase the processing liquid as well. I will create a post about toner soon



4 comments:

  1. so my question is that ik were talking about DPL (dual purpose lightner). i have a level 2 natural hair color and well my hair is already a 10 and i have roots that r about a centimeter long, would i be able to use the lighten up blonding paste with 40 vol?? note:i have very thick, curly and coarse latin/hispanic hair texture!

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  2. Superr article thanks for sharing the information.

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  3. I use the lighten up blonding paste in a tube as well and would like a professionals instructions on using that vs the dual purpose lightener and what toner other than 613 can i use to give me that silver blonde..also do you ise orlaplex or any ki da of treatmenr out there to use on your whair right after a bleach 2 give it lots of tlc? And can you mix like toner 613 and the clear shine toner together at once and apply or only do 1 at a time?!

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